McPherson, KS to Emporia, KS 83 miles and 1400 feet of climbing
We were blessed again this morning with cool temperatures and clear skies as we set out from McPherson, Kansas, bound for Emporia, Kansas. For the first 5 or 10 miles, it looked like the old Kellog's Corn Flakes ad. "The best to you each morning from Battle Creek." the voiceover announced as the pastoral image of a country farm at sunrise was shown on the TV screen.
The sun was rising over the trees as we rode down country roads with green fields on either side. We passed cows grazing and farmers tilling the soil in their fields. Every little town seems to have a Family Dollar or Dollar General store. Gas at the local gas stations is about $3.10 a gallon or lower. It was Memorial Day, and the American flag was lowered to half-mast at a cemetery. Some towns had pictures of local war veterans displayed on the lampposts all along their main streets. It seems that where ever we are in Kansas, we never go too long without either seeing or hearing a freight train.
That pretty much tells the story of today's ride. Everyone got in safely, and all seemed excited. Relieved to have a rest day tomorrow. The laundry room at the hotel was a busy place, and other riders set out in search of food.
I walked into the hotel lobby after putting my clothes in the washing machine, and I came across Payton, the tour mechanic, and Peter the college professor from the UK. They were both looking at Peter's bike. It is a high-end bike with a titanium frame. They were looking at the down tube on the frame. I came in closer to have a look myself and saw a large crack in the tube about an inch from where it intersects with the head tube. Payton had done a safety check on the bike the day before and evidently saw nothing. But there it was. Not a small crack but a very large one that went around perhaps 3/4 of the tube. Peter is lucky he got in safely today. That tube could have easily given way and caused him to crash. He looked stunned. He said the bike was about 8 years old. I've had two titanium-framed bikes over the years, and one of the main reasons I bought them is that they are so strong, and the metal doesn't fatigue like steel (or so I'm told). I have never seen a titanium frame crack without having been in a crash. But there it was.
I quickly googled bike shops in Emporia and texted the addresses to Peter. He requested that Payton take him to the shops right away, and within 20 minutes, they were in one of the tour vans in search of a new bike for Peter. That sort of help and quick action would have been nice for me to have back in Palm Desert when my bike failed. The tour company refused to take me to the bike shop or even find a bike shop for me to go to. Then, of course, the tour director insisted on adding insult to injury the next morning by berating me and shaking her finger in my face. But where was Payton, the tour mechanic, in my time of need, you ask? In Illinois taking his EMT test.
I apologize for rehashing old events, but as I watched the scene play out yesterday afternoon, my rage started building again. When that happens, typically, I can hop on my bike and clear my head. In this instance, since I had already ridden 83 miles and showered, I went to my trusty plan B. I started walking in search of a liquor store. I groused out loud to myself as I walked down the street, sometimes waving my hands around. About 2 miles down the road, I found a liquor store and bought 2 beers and a bottle of Vodka. Upon returning to the hotel, I saw Payton, and he set about installing the new handlebars, the ones I ordered online and had delivered to the hotel. I gave him $50 for his trouble. Evidently, he and Peter had found that both bike shops were closed for Memorial Day. They will return tomorrow to secure Peter another bike and presumably have the shop ship his old bike back to the manufacturer. Heaven knows he can't expect Crossroads Adventure Cycling to carry a disabled bike. I learned that when our tour director berated me for a second time in Prescott. AZ when she ordered me to get that bike out of her truck and that she would not carry it any further. Such a nice woman. Now THAT is truly customer service with a capital C.
Tomorrow is a rest day, and although the break from riding will be nice, after cleaning my bike and picking up some things at the Walmart next door, I expect I'll be looking for something to occupy my time by the late morning. I'll probably watch some baseball on my computer.
We are nearly 1/2 way on our journey across the country. I still love the daily routine, riding every day on new roads. But I will also be happy to see my wife and friends in Boston in a few weeks. My friend Doug, who was with me during the 2019 ride, asked me last night over the phone if I would be saying,
"I wish it wouldn't end."
At the end of this ride, as I said at the end of the 2019 ride. The answer to that is no. I do plan to enjoy every remaining day of this ride to its fullest. But then I'll be very happy to move on to something else.
After our rest day, we ride to Topeka, Kansas, on Wednesday.
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